Purple and Green Cabbages

Winter is a subject I usually prefer to ignore, and in California this is pretty easy to do.

Although temperatures approach freezing at night, rarely do things actually freeze. We have our farmers market here in San Francisco year round, and overall I realize I am utterly spoiled.

But that doesn’t make it any easier to get excited about winter.

It’s still cold. It’s still gray. It gets dark early and the nights are long. Everything and everyone seems to want to hibernate, especially me.

But this weekend I decided to embrace winter and all its glorious produce. I think I was inspired by all the delicious recipes around the blogosphere. Who knows. But today I was excited about parsnips, braising greens, mushrooms and citrus, and barely even noticed that my pomegranates and peppers are out for the count.

White Carrots

Winter greens and root vegetables are especially exciting to me right now. I know this sounds weird, but until you’ve tasted them at the height of season (as we are now in), it is hard to know what I mean.

The difference is that during a lot of the year hearty greens and root vegetables like turnips and kohlrabi can be very bitter and spicy. They are edible in this state, but require a lot more work to be delicious. Right now all these vegetables are sweet, almost like candy.

Cabbages and Kale

Watermelon Radish

If you don’t believe me, head down to the market and try some of the samples. People’s ooos and ahhs from their surprise at the delicious flavor of daikon and kohlrabi is audible throughout the market. Nobody expects vegetables to be this sweet.

The same is true for the brassica, things like cabbage, kale and collards. All these vegetables can be bitter and pungent when eaten out of season, but now they are as sweet and delicious as fruit.

Trumpet Mushrooms

Yukon Gold Potatoes

Another thing you don’t want to miss this season is the mushrooms. Truffles are expensive, but a small domestic white truffle can be purchased for around $10 or less and can make a spectacular treat for a weekend brunch. The chantarelle mushrooms are also big and flavorful this time of year. Personally I am loving the flavor and texture of trumpet mushrooms cooked up in a little olive oil and parsley.

Citrus fruit are the stars of the fruit scene, though you can still find some lingering pears and persimmons. I love the size and flavor of the clementines this time of year, but am looking forward to the grapefruits, pomelos and navel oranges sweetening up.

Citron

And it is hard to complain too much if there are Meyer lemons around.

Now is also a great time to get heirloom beans, dried chilies, sustainable meats, dried spices, tropical fruits, walnut oil, dried fruit and artisan cheeses.

Asian Pears

Limes

Today’s Purchases:

• Braising greens (Marin Roots Farm)
• Parsnips (Tierra Vegetables)
• Carrots (Tierra Vegetables)
• Kohlrabi (Heirloom Organic Gardens)
• Fingerling potatoes (Zuckerman’s farm)
• Shallots (Dirty Girl Produce)
• Bosc pear (Frog Hollow Farm)
• Warren pear (Frog Hollow Farm)
• Clementines (Olsen Organic Farm)
• Kale (Capay Organics)
• Rosemary (Eatwell Farm)
• Pink lady apples (K & J Orchards)
• Walnut oil (Glashoff Farms)

Have you embraced winter?

Leeks and Beets

Probably my single favorite thing about Thanksgiving is that no matter what, it is always on a Thursday.

This simple temporal restriction gives us three full days to recover from too many mashed potatoes and that extra slice of pie we really didn’t mean to have. It also gives us time to stock up on healthy foods for the following week.

The San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers Market tends to be relatively empty after a holiday, which is nice for regular shoppers. I used this opportunity to sleep in a little and stroll slowly through the market once before going back and making the bulk of my purchases.

As expected, peppers, tomatoes and all other remnants of summer are now virtually non-existent, while signs of winter are undeniable.

Mandarins

Mandarins, lemons and oranges are widely available, and today I found the first pomelo of the season.

Pomelo are like huge grapefruit with thick skin, except they are not sour. I first learned to appreciate these fruits in Thailand, where vendors will cut and clean them for you right on the street. These big green pomelo with pink flesh are probably my favorite variety (but don’t hate me if I change my mind 2-3 times this season as new ones come out).

Early Pink Pomelo

Meyer Lemons In Basket

As much as I love citrus though, it is still tough for me to get too excited about it when pears, apples and persimmons are so unbelievably perfect.

Fuyu Persimmon

In the vegetable world, the rockstars this week are roots, stalks and hearty leaves. I’ve been loving Tuscan kale (the dark, bumpy variety), chard, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, fennel and Brussels sprouts.

Celery, leeks, beets, onions and sweet potatoes are also worth playing around with this time of year.

Organic Celery

Taylor Gold Pears

And of course, I’m still obsessed with winter squash. With nothing but olive oil and sea salt, roasted red kuri squash tastes like pumpkin pie only better.

Lastly, it seems that the weekend after Thanksgiving is also the best time to go to the farmers market if you happen to be Super Mario.

If you live in SF, it is worth a trip to the Ferry Building just to see these GIGANTIC porcini mushrooms. I wouldn’t even know where to start with one of these bad boys, but I can’t help but marvel at them with a twinge of envy.

Giant Porcini

Seriously, what could you do with a mushroom like this besides grow super big or get a 1UP? If I had a few of these I could definitely save the princess.

Chantarelles, trumpet mushrooms and several other normal-sized fungi varieties are also in season.

Did any of you make it to the farmers market this week?

Today’s Purchases:

• Napa cabbage (Capay Organics)
• Delicata squash (Capay Organics)
• Brussels sprouts (Iacopi Farm)
• Assorted pears (Frog Hollow Farm)
• Trumpet mushrooms (Far West Fungi)
• Red Russian kale (Dirty Girl Produce)
• Cippolini onions (Dirty Girl Produce)
• Shallots (Dirty Girl Produce)
• Collard greens (Chue’s Farm)
• Fennel (Chue’s Farm)
• Parsley (Chue’s Farm)
• Fuyu persimmon (Devoto Gardens)
• Pink lady apples (Devoto Gardens)

Mushrooms are a great source of fiber and can provide other nutrients, including potassium and

iron. They contain some vitamins as well, particularly B vitamins.

My other purchases today mark a notable shift from the usual. My goal at the market is always to get at least 5 dinners and 5 lunches for the week. But since my beautiful summer tomatoes are now out of season, I can no longer rely on salads for lunch. This means I also did not buy cucumbers or salad greens. Instead I will try roasting vegetables this weekend and reheating them at work. Stay tuned to find out how that goes.

• Shiitake mushrooms
• Soul Food eggs
• Warren pears
• Dino kale
• Cauliflower
• Brussels sprouts
• Baby leeks
• Golden beets
• Sunchokes
• Flame grapes
• Padrones
• Pasilla pepper
• Giant fuyu persimmon
• Arkansas black apple
• Pomegranates
• Pain epi baguette